Saturday, October 18, 2014

Female Clothing in Edo Period Japan


When one thinks of clothing in Japan, what they generally think of is the Kimono. Kimono generally are the wrap-around clothes that a lot of people see when looking at traditional Japanese art. However, there is a lot of structure and social rules behind the kimono. One of the first rules is that the left side of the kimono must always go over the right (when looking down at yourself). Kimono are also square cut and have rectangular sleeves. The sleeves vary depending on multiple things, such as the age, sex, class or occupation of the person as well as the current occasion or season. There are also multiple layers that are usually worn. An under kimono, usually made of plain and easy to clean fabric, goes on first over which the kimono goes. Oftentimes in warm weather, a small collar covers the spot usually covered by the under-kimono. This also allows elaborate patterns to be displayed there. Clothes are never hooked or tied, instead being tied with himo, which are straps sewn with folded fabric. Over the himo goes the obi and the obi sash. The obi also varies extremely based on age and status. The obi’s bow always goes at the back of the person. (1)

Kimono in the Edo period were generally used as a representation of social status in the higher classes and whilst lower classes were able to wear them, there were restrictions in place. After wealthy craftsmen and merchants began to show their wealth by buying and wearing gaudy and expensive clothing, certain fabrics, techniques and colours were forbidden for use by the lower classes due to the fear that it would upset the rigid social structure that was in place at the time. This encouraged the craftsmen to create new techniques and eventually change what was in-style, switching from bright colours to more subdued tones, as well as often toeing the line by using colours such as red (which was forbidden) in places such as linings, which were not restricted. (2)

For women, a cylindrical shape is essential, and there will often be pads worn under the clothes to maintain this shape. The kimono’s back is often low-slung, showing a lot of the back. Showing the front is frowned upon. Many hime, or high-born women would wear a red or purple brocade, with an outer kimono that trails along the ground which is highly embroidered in gold, going over the obi.
For footwear, sandals are almost always worn unless in rainy weather. For when it is cold, tabi, or split-toe sock are worn, which are designed to be worn with the sandals. Sandals are always taken off when entering a place, so the tabi also serve a function as slippers. When it rains, geta are worn, which are like clogs. They have platforms on the bottom to keep the wearer away from mud and puddles, but are otherwise similar to their sandals with split-toe straps. (3)

Hairstyles for women also varied greatly. In the Edo period alone the hairstyles of women grew very extravagant, adorned with many combs, hair-sticks and ribbons, being waxed and tied into elaborate patterns. In the early Edo period, shimada mage, the hair is looped back and slicked with wax, with a comb inserted in the back. This style evolved and grew, with some having the comb positioned front-facing, including several hair-sticks. There is also another style called the yoko-hyogo, which emerged in the late Edo period. In this style, a large volume of hair is placed on top, with the sides waxed to spread out, representing wings. This style is adorned with many combs, sticks and ribbons. The hair is also shaved at the temples and forehead to create a widow’s peak. (4)

Bibliography:


No comments:

Post a Comment