When one thinks of clothing in Japan, what they generally
think of is the Kimono. Kimono generally are the wrap-around clothes that a lot
of people see when looking at traditional Japanese art. However, there is a lot
of structure and social rules behind the kimono. One of the first rules is that
the left side of the kimono must always go over the right (when looking down at
yourself). Kimono are also square cut and have rectangular sleeves. The sleeves
vary depending on multiple things, such as the age, sex, class or occupation of
the person as well as the current occasion or season. There are also multiple
layers that are usually worn. An under kimono, usually made of plain and easy
to clean fabric, goes on first over which the kimono goes. Oftentimes in warm
weather, a small collar covers the spot usually covered by the under-kimono.
This also allows elaborate patterns to be displayed there. Clothes are never
hooked or tied, instead being tied with himo,
which are straps sewn with folded fabric. Over the himo goes the obi and the
obi sash. The obi also varies extremely based on age and status. The obi’s bow always goes at the back of the
person. (1)
Kimono in the Edo period were generally used as a
representation of social status in the higher classes and whilst lower classes
were able to wear them, there were restrictions in place. After wealthy
craftsmen and merchants began to show their wealth by buying and wearing gaudy
and expensive clothing, certain fabrics, techniques and colours were forbidden
for use by the lower classes due to the fear that it would upset the rigid
social structure that was in place at the time. This encouraged the craftsmen
to create new techniques and eventually change what was in-style, switching
from bright colours to more subdued tones, as well as often toeing the line by
using colours such as red (which was forbidden) in places such as linings,
which were not restricted. (2)
For women, a cylindrical shape is essential, and there will
often be pads worn under the clothes to maintain this shape. The kimono’s back
is often low-slung, showing a lot of the back. Showing the front is frowned
upon. Many hime, or high-born women
would wear a red or purple brocade, with an outer kimono that trails along the
ground which is highly embroidered in gold, going over the obi.
For footwear, sandals are almost always worn unless in rainy
weather. For when it is cold, tabi,
or split-toe sock are worn, which are designed to be worn with the sandals.
Sandals are always taken off when entering a place, so the tabi also serve a function as slippers. When it rains, geta are worn, which are like clogs.
They have platforms on the bottom to keep the wearer away from mud and puddles,
but are otherwise similar to their sandals with split-toe straps. (3)
Hairstyles for women also varied greatly. In the Edo period
alone the hairstyles of women grew very extravagant, adorned with many combs,
hair-sticks and ribbons, being waxed and tied into elaborate patterns. In the
early Edo period, shimada mage, the
hair is looped back and slicked with wax, with a comb inserted in the back.
This style evolved and grew, with some having the comb positioned front-facing,
including several hair-sticks. There is also another style called the yoko-hyogo, which emerged in the late
Edo period. In this style, a large volume of hair is placed on top, with the
sides waxed to spread out, representing wings. This style is adorned with many
combs, sticks and ribbons. The hair is also shaved at the temples and forehead
to create a widow’s peak. (4)
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